"Thanks for the climb of a lifetime! It was truly incredible."
Jeff B.
Mt. Rainier Climb July 2011
Visit our blog page to read an account from our 2011 program.
AMGA Certified Guides
Our Mt. Rainier Disappointment Cleaver climb is guided by two of our experienced staff members who are certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) as alpine guides, rock guides or ski mountaineering guides. You can expect your guides to be highly trained professionals who are also friendly and compassionate teachers and leaders.
Emphasis on Skill Development
Our Mt. Rainier program emphasizes skill development so you gain skills for confident climbing on other glaciated peaks after the program. We teach you essential mountaineering skills like map, compass, & GPS navigation; basic glaciology; glacier rope-team travel; snow and ice anchor building; small-team crevasse rescue; ice axe and crampon use; self belay and self arrest; alpine ecology and natural history; expedition camping and cooking; and Leave No Trace principles for an alpine environment. Most importantly, we involve everyone in team decision making so each member can apply newly learned skills to real situations.
Rest & Acclimatization Day Optimizes Success
Our 6-day program includes a layover day at Ingraham Flats to allow for proper acclimatization and to provide some much-needed rest prior to the summit attempt. During this layover day we also introduce a variety of mountaineering skills - such as crevasse rescue and anchor building - so you gain more skills.
Small Group Size
We operate this program as a small group of 4 climbers and 2 guides. This low climber-to-guide ratio ensures you will get personalized instruction and guidance throughout the climb. It also maximizes our flexibility and increases each individual's chance for success on summit day.
6-day Mt. Rainier Disappointment Cleaver Climb Sample Itinerary:
Day 1: The group will meet at a designated location in Ashford, WA at 1:00 pm for introductions and a warm welcome to all team members. To begin the process of becoming an effective climbing team we’ll hear from each member about their background and goals for the program. On a big mountain like Mt. Rainier, good communication is essential to safe and successful climbing so we strive to establish a foundation of friendly, open dialogue right at the beginning of the program. Once we have gained some familiarity with one another we'll do a gear check to make sure everyone has all the required equipment. We also use the gear check process as an opportunity to begin discussing packing techniques for proper balance and comfort. With gear organized and backpacks ready to go, we will review the approach trail and climbing route on the map. You will be introduced to a technique for route planning that will enable you to make time estimates, and forecast hazards, for a given climbing route. By learning this process you will be able to create an effective route plan for future alpine climbs. Finally, we’ll discuss important considerations for climbing on Mt. Rainier such as geologic hazards, Leave No Trace practices, and interactions with other climbers.
Day 2: The group will depart from the hotel and drive to the Paradise trailhead at 5400' where we embark on our big adventure. After looking at the map to understand the route, we will travel past beautiful alpine meadows to the beginning of the Muir Snowfield at about 7200'. Once on the Muir Snowfield we will climb for another 2880' on low angle snow slopes to Camp Muir at 10,080'. Along the way we will introduce map, compass, and altimeter navigation, pacing, and Leave No Trace principles for the alpine environment. We'll also practice techniques for efficient travel on snow such as step kicking and the rest step, and we'll learn how to use the ice axe for balance and protection. Once we arrive at Camp Muir we’ll select a campsite for protection and good views, and we’ll discuss alpine camping fundamentals like safe and sanitary cooking, water acquisition and purification, and waste management. Once camp is established and we have had a nice dinner, we'll relax and enjoy the evening.
Day 3: Today we ascend 1000’ to our high camp at Ingraham Flats. Our route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier adjacent to Camp Muir, and then ascends through the Cathedral Rocks and onto the Ingraham Glacier. During this ascent you will learn basic glaciology as it applies to route finding, how to rig the rope for glacier travel, and how to travel efficiently as a rope team by managing rope tension and making smooth turns. If conditions allow, we may also begin using crampons to learn “French technique”, the primary technique for efficient footwork on firm snow. Upon arrival at Ingraham Flats, we’ll locate a campsite and review LNT practices for a snow and ice environment, including the use of blue bags. Then we'll settle in for dinner and a good night of sleep.
Day 4: Today we will spend the day on the glacier around Ingraham Flats, learning and practicing a variety of fundamental mountaineering skills. This day also allows us to rest and further acclimatize in preparation for our summit attempt. You will be introduced to proper techniques for climbing in crampons, building snow and ice anchors, and performing a small-team crevasse rescue. Your guide will describe and demonstrate these techniques, and then you will have the opportunity to practice each technique with helpful coaching and guidance. With ample time for practice, and with helpful coaching from your guides, you should gain a strong grasp of these techniques for your future climbing endeavors. After our day on the glacier we’ll go back to camp to create a route plan for the summit attempt and we’ll discuss a strategy for departure time, clothing selection, and team travel. We'll have an early dinner and early bedtime in order to be well rested for our big summit day.
Day 5: We will wake early to make our summit attempt on the Disappointment Cleaver route. Following our route plan we’ll travel across the Ingraham Glacier to the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. Once we gain the Cleaver we will ascend it's rocky crest to a high point at 12,400'. From here we step into big glaciated terrain that is spectacular and awe-inspiring. Our route will weave around large crevasses in its path to the summit. As we travel together on the rope, this section of the climb provides good insight into the decision making required to manage a rope team in heavily glaciated terrain. Gradually the angle lessens and soon we are standing on the Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier at 14,410 feet. With 9,000’ feet of climbing below, all of which required your new skills and knowledge, you will feel an incredible sense of accomplishment! After enjoying the spectacular views and taking pictures we’ll begin our descent to Ingraham Flats. Reversing our route, we will gradually work our way back down to the comfort of our tents.
Day 6: The final day of the program is spent packing up camp and descending to Paradise. From there, we’ll drive to a restaurant in Ashford where we'll have a final celebratory lunch. |
