Perhaps the most iconic of all Cascade volcanoes, Mt. Rainier is a "mountaineer's mountain” in every sense. It is the most heavily glaciated peak in the contiguous United States and boasts a remarkable 10,000’ relief from trailhead to summit. The giant glaciers on this incredible peak are a premier training ground for aspiring and seasoned mountaineers alike. Join us for this special small-group program to expand your mountaineering skills and to make a summit attempt of the Emmons Glacier route.
AMGA Certified Guide
Our Mt. Rainier program is guided by one of our experienced staff members who holds AMGA alpine guide or ski mountaineering guide certification. You can expect your guide to be a highly trained professional, experienced in the Cascades, and equally important, to be a friendly and compassionate teacher and leader.
Emphasis on skill development
Our Mt. Rainier program emphasizes skill development for furthering of your mountaineering knowledge. We teach you essential mountaineering skills like map, compass, & GPS navigation; basic glaciology; glacier rope-team travel; ice axe and crampon use; self belay and self arrest; alpine ecology and natural history; expedition camping and cooking; and Leave No Trace principles for an alpine environment. Most importantly, we involve everyone in team decision making so each member can apply newly learned skills to real situations.
5-day Mt. Rainier Emmons Glacier Climb Sample Itinerary:
Day 1: The group will meet at a designated location in Seattle at 1:00 pm for introductions and a warm welcome to all team members. To begin the process of becoming an effective climbing team we’ll hear from each member about their background and goals for the program. On a big mountain like Mt. Rainier good communication is essential to safe and successful climbing so we strive to establish a foundation for friendly, open dialogue right at the beginning of the program. Once we have gained some familiarity with one another we'll do a gear check to make sure everyone has all the required equipment. We also use the gear check process as an opportunity to begin discussing packing techniques for proper balance and comfort. With gear organized and backpacks ready to go, we will review the approach trail and climbing route on the map. You will be introduced to a technique for route planning that will enable you to make time estimates, and forecast hazards, for a given climbing route. Using this technique, along with map, compass, & GPS, we’ll calculate the total elevation gain and mileage for each day and make a route plan for our climb. By learning this process you will be able to create an effective route plan for future alpine climbs. Finally, we’ll discuss important considerations for climbing on Mt. Rainier such as geologic hazards, Leave No Trace practices, and interactions with other climbers.
Day 2: The group will depart from the hotel and drive to the White River Campground where we embark on our big adventure. After looking at the maps to understand the route, we will follow the Glacier Basin Trail for 3.3 miles to Glacier Basin, the site of our first camp. This hike ascends 1600’ vertical feet while passing through beautiful Northwestern forests and alongside the tumbling White River. Along the way we will introduce map, compass, and altimeter navigation, pacing, and Leave No Trace principles for a forest environment. Once we arrive at Glacier Basin we’ll select a campsite for protection and good views, and we’ll discuss alpine camping fundamentals like safe and sanitary cooking, water acquisition and purification, and waste management. If conditions allow, we may also introduce techniques for kicking steps in snow, using an ice axe for balance and self-belay, and self arrest.
Day 3: Today we ascend 3440’ to our high camp at Camp Schurman. Our route ascends the Inter Glacier directly above Glacier Basin, and then veers onto the largest glacier in the contiguous United States: the Emmons Glacier. During this ascent you will learn basic glaciology as it applies to route finding, how to rig the rope for glacier travel, and how to travel efficiently as a rope team by managing rope tension and making smooth turns. If conditions allow, we may also begin using crampons and learning “french technique”, the primary technique for efficient footwork on firm snow. You will also be introduced to proper ice axe use and self arrest. Upon arrival at Camp Schurman, we’ll locate a campsite and review LNT practices for a snow and ice environment, such as the use of blue bags. Once we're settled, we'll create a route plan for tomorrow’s summit attempt and we’ll discuss a strategy for departure time, clothing selection, and team travel. An early dinner will see us off to bed for our big summit day.
Day 4: We will wake early to make our summit attempt on the Emmons Glacier route. Following our route plan we’ll ascend the northern edge of the Emmons Glacier toward a large ramp at mid-height. This ramp provides elegant access to the upper mountain and its awesome display of big-mountain glaciated terrain. The large crevasses that exist here are truly beautiful and awe-inspiring. As we travel together on the rope, this section of the climb provides good insight into the decision making required to manage a rope team in heavily glaciated terrain. Gradually the angle lessens and soon we are standing on the Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier. With 10,000’ feet of climbing below, all of which required your new skills and knowledge, you will feel an incredible sense of accomplishment! After enjoying the spectacular views and taking pictures we’ll begin our descent to Camp Schurman. Reversing our route, we will gradually work our way back down to the comfort of our tents.
Day 5: The final day of the program is spent packing up camp and descending to the White River Campground where the car awaits us. We’ll drive back to the hotel in Seattle, arriving in the early evening. |
